Crafts of Kutch: Trip Recap
Written by Guest Contributor Jessie Mordine Young
Photos by Lucy Laucht and Video by Natasha Ali.
In Thread Caravan’s inaugural Crafts of Kutch experience, participants were fully immersed into the rich and storied craft traditions of Gujarat’s Kutch region, a land shaped by centuries of nomadic movements, trade, and artistic heritage. Over the course of eight days, we connected with master artisans and learned textile techniques through hands-on learning experiences. Below, we dive into the unique experiences included in the trip itinerary.
Day 1:
Hand Stitching Embroidery + Antique Textiles
On our first day, we visited the women of Kala Raksha, an organization dedicated to preserving the embroidery traditions of Kutch. Here, we learned how to draw with thread by employing a variety of hand-stitching techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation, each embellishment telling a story of the land and its people. Later, we explored the collection of vintage textiles at the home of Salim Wazir, where the group gained insight into the history of material culture from the region.
Salim shared the meaning of some of the embroidery stitches:
Peacock - sign of prosperity
Parrots - Love
Flowers - Happiness
Snake and scorpion - Fertility
Dog - Protection/To Keep away evil
Elephant - Wealth and Prosperity
Day 2:
Ajrakh Block Printing and Indigo Resist Dyeing
We spent the day with Sufiyan Khatri and his family, who are masters in the art of block printing. They work in the “Ajrakh” style (Ajrakh is a Sindhi word which translates to indigo or blue), which is rooted in geometric abstraction, similar to Islamic tilework. Their intricate designs are first drafted and then carved into wood blocks with patience and precision before being printed with a resist involving the meticulous layering of natural dyes, including the iconic indigo. Under Sufiyan’s guidance, we tried our hand at the age-old practice, pressing wooden blocks onto fabric and submerging them in deep vats of indigo dye. The resulting patterns, with their earthy reds and rich blues, spoke to the beauty of this tradition.
Day 3:
Spinning Kala Cotton and Visiting the Indigo Temple
The focus of the day was Kala cotton, an indigenous, rain-fed variety tied to Kutch’s textile heritage. We visited the home of Shamji Vankar Vishram Valji, who spins this fiber by hand, appreciating the patience and skill required to transform the raw material into a fine, handspun yarn. Rabari women from the countryside guided us through the spinning process. Later, we visited Shamji Bai’s indigo temple, where his dye vats are stored when in between dips. Part alchemy, part magic, we witnessed the process of indigo dyeing, where we saw the yarn transition from green to deep blue.
When they visited the studio of Abdullah and his brother Abduljabbar, they were introduced to the art of Bandhani—derived from the word “to bind”—an intricate and traditional form of tie-dye renowned in the region. Inspired by this rich craft, the brothers later founded SIDR Craft, which now houses its own dye studio and employs over 300 skilled dyers. Participants were guided through a workshop where we crafted unique patterns using the resist technique and lac—a natural dye derived from beetles that produces brilliant magenta hues.
Day 4:
Rabari Shepherd Community + Pitloom Weaving
On our fourth morning and before the sun rose over Kutch, we set out to meet the Rabari shepherding community, a nomadic group whose lifestyle has been intrinsically linked to the region for centuries. Over a cup of hot Masala chai, we learned about their herding practices, the importance of wool in their economy, and their enduring connection to the land.
We then returned to Shamji Bhai’s home for lunch, and then spent the afternoon in his open-air studio learning each step of the weaving process, from winding the warp to dressing the loom, to preparing the weft, and then finally sitting at the pit loom and weaving. The rhythmic clatter of the loom and the steady hands of the weaver brought to life the centuries-old practice of turning thread into textiles.
Day 5:
Butter Milk Making, Copper Bell Crafting, + the Rann of Kutch
In the early hours of the morning, we visited Shamji Bhai’s mother, Lacchu, who makes fresh butter milk each day, a delicious, savory drink which is an essential part of each meal in rural life. Each day, she milks her cows and then hand-churns the fresh cream into rich, velvety butter, while the leftover liquid becomes the refreshing buttermilk drink.
After breakfast, drove north of Bhuj to explore the craft of copper cow bell making, as we watched Janmamad Salemada Luhar and his brothers share the history of their family business, which has existed for generations. They then demonstrated how they skillfully shape and tune each bell to perfection. Originally used by nomadic herders while caring for their flock of sheep, these art objects are now used for decoration, and with that their
As the day drew to a close, we arrived at the Rann of Kutch, where the vast salt flats stretched endlessly before us under the setting sun. A speedy camel cart ride, delicious thali dinner, and live classical music was the perfect way to conclude our trip.
Each experience during Thread Caravan’s Crafts of Kutch tour deepened our appreciation for the region’s cultural heritage and the resilience of its craftspeople.
As we departed, we carried with us not only handcrafted treasures but also a deep respect for the traditions that continue to thrive in this remarkable land.
